Visitors the world over are awestruck over by the majesty and enchantment of the Norwegian Fjords.

Widely acknowledged as the world’s most beautiful voyage which abounds with myths and folklore, epic scenery lies in store around every corner.

Our Lifestyle and Leisure Editor, Sharon Cain, and series photographer, Steve Hare, embarked on a seven-day coastal journey North from Bergen to Kirkenes with Havila Voyages, a leader in sustainability in the cruise sector.

Their discoveries onboard the Havila Capella included exploring the dazzling Geirangerfjord, crossing the Arctic Circle, experiencing powerful tidal currents - and venturing to the world’s edge.

Bergen: Gateway To The Fjords

We arrived a day early in Bergen, a maritime town packed with coastal charms including colourful wooden houses at Bryggan’s historic Wharf, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We laughed till we cried when a magic mirror at The Troll museum transformed us into cheeky gremlins and succumbed to the irresistible waft of cinnamon buns, kanelboller, a national classic. Shrouded in mist, Bergen’s mountainous backdrop heightened anticipation of the spectacular backdrops that lay in store.

Fusing past and present: Bryggan Wharf

Embarkation was as smooth as the Norwegian sea that bore us North. Light and spacious with a contemporary Nordic design, the ship has nine decks, capacity for up to 680 passengers and was relaxing and easy to navigate.

Havila Voyages’ four-strong coastal fleet also transports mail and cargo such as fish products, industrial materials, cars and, occasionally, passengers’ dogs. The government subsidised operation provides a vital service to coastal communities and preserves coastal traditions.

Glacial Wonderland

I awoke to a paradise of snow-capped peaks towering below clear blue skies and deep blue waters dappled with sunshine. Fjord Rangers, who had boarded at Alesund, explained how the fjords were formed by shifting glaciers in the last ice age, along with the challenges faced by more isolated areas.

In the approach to Geirangerfjord, a sensational but environmentally vulnerable fjord, silence ascended as we sailed for four hours on zero emissions. This is attributable to the fleet’s battery packs being the largest of any passenger ship on the planet. Charged with clean hydropower onshore, when not in use the ship runs on liquid natural gas (LNG).

Spellbinding: Geirangerfjord

Norway’s treasure trove of natural wonders and folklore are evident in Geirangerfjord’s series of cascading waterfalls, the 'Seven Sisters', renowned for their compelling legend of unrequited love.

The sisters, daughters of troll kings, were courted by ‘the suitor’, another waterfall on the opposite side of the fjord - but his advances were rejected. Astronomers and anthropologists believe the story originated over 100,000 years ago, making it the world's oldest fable which continues to be passed onto future generations.

The majestic fjord, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005, is just 15 kilometres long. It is best avoided in summer when 700,000 visitors descend. Spring is a delightful season to visit the visitor centre's nature and history exhibitions and see Storfossen, the ‘Big Waterfall’, which roars 35 meters down cliffs into the fjord.

The ship’s tour included a tender ride to the visitor centre and a picturesque coach journey back to Alesund where the evening was in full swing. The city’s art nouveau architecture glistened in the sunshine and bars around the harbour buzzed with locals chilling out.

Trondheim: Home of Norway’s National Shrine

Next morning, we were admiring Trondheim’s landmark Nidaros Cathedral with its striking Romanesque and Gothic architectural styles. Built over the burial site of Viking King Olav II, who introduced Norway to Christianity.

Spring vibes brought joggers onto the streets, a flurry of rowers were training for their next race, and café life, a Norwegian social ritual, spilt onto the pavements.

Norwegians consuming copious amounts - up to five cups - of coffee daily. Their love of home-baked goods explains the endless displays of cakes and pastries such as almond cakes, sweet breads bursting with vanilla custard and rich sponge cakes. My moist carrot cake was something else and I wondered how the population, surrounded by so much temptation, are so trim.

With less than a day to go before sailing past the fabled Arctic boundary, my excitement levels were reaching fever pitch.


Crossing The Arctic Circle

We entered a competition to guess what time between 7.30am - 8.30am would mark the momentous transit across the circle of latitude around 66°33’ North at the Arctic border. We set the alarm and joined fellow bleary-eyed passengers on the viewing deck.

Frozen glacial landscapes, ice caps and ice sheets permeated the landscape, eliciting profound emotions as all sense of time and worlds dissipated. The stillness and remoteness of this ancient, enduring backdrop put into perspective the transient nature of our lives on this vast planet.

I was surprised to learn that the Arctic Circle is not stationary. A mobile monument in the form of a three meter concrete sphere with a mini lighthouse and globe, Orbus et Globus moves with the Arctic Circle as it shifts 48 feet every year aligned with changes in the earth’s axial tilt.

Ceremonial Baptism

Deep reflection gave way to belly laughs in an Arctic Circle ceremony. We shouted loudly to invoke a guest appearance from the mythological Norse Sea God, Njord. A protector of safe voyages, he is associated with the sea, fishing, wind, and wealth. His impressive beard could have kept us all warm!

The good-spirited winner who guessed the crossing time within seconds was rewarded with an ice cube dousing and welcome alcohol shot. The fun was contagious as other brave guests joined in, shrieking as the ice slid down their backs.

A flurry of activity followed in the shop as guests queued to buy postcards and Arctic crossing certificates, cherished memories for the affable Arctic Circle postman to ceremoniously stamp.

All Aboard: World’s Strongest Maelstrom

The momentous day continued with an adrenalin-fuelled adventure negotiating Saltstraumen, one of the globe's most strongest tidal currents, on a high-powered inflatable dingy.

With up to 400 million cubic metres of seawater flowing daily through the strait of Bodø, currents influenced by the sun and moon, can reach up to 25 miles an hour, creating whirlpools up to ten metres in diameter.

Jaw-dropping surrounds included the Caledonian Fold Belt, a 250-million-year-old mountainside formed by a sequence of turbulent geological events.

When I thought nothing could top the views and exhilaration of the swirling whirlpools, Steve captured a magnificent white tailed sea-eagle, Northern Europe’s biggest bird of prey with wingspans that can exceed seven feet.

Ships That Pass In The Night

Barely recovered from the day’s adventures, it was time to hang out the flags – literally – to greet our sister ship, the Havila Castor, heading south. The vessels welcomed their nautical siblings with resounding delight amid passengers’ high-octane flag waving and vigorous cheering.

Evening brought a 40-minute stop in Svolvaer, the largest town in the Lofoten Islands archipelago. With time of the essence, we headed for the Magic Ice bar's eclectic gallery of ice sculptures. Swiftly downing a freezing cold signature drink in sub zero temperatures, we left swiftly before we became a fixture of the glacial exhibition.

Arctic Cathedral: Celebration of Purity

Tromsø’s Arctic Cathedral - an architectural masterpiece dominating the skyline at the end of Tromsø Bridge - elicited intakes of breath as we sailed into the largest city north of the Arctic Circle.

A white symbol of purity, the unique design is the most iconic building of the late architect Jan Inge Hovig, esteemed for his modernist designs.

Aluminium-coated concrete roof panels mirror ice and snow and the organ's reindeer-hide bellows are redolent of sails or ice flows.

A sanctuary for reflection with stained glass rich in symbols, the light and airy interior, which seats around 600 people, emits an air of spirituality.

Tromsø, a dynamic, cultural hub, is also the 2026 designated European Youth Capital. Among the world’s top Northern Lights locations, the sun never rises between November to January and never sets from May to July.

North Cape Plateau: World’s Edge

Just when I thought the ‘wow’ factors had run their course, I was transfixed by an infinite horizon on the world’s edge - over three hundred meters above the Arctic Ocean

North Cape's setting is commemorated by a fifty foot globe reflecting its remoteness along with a ‘Children of the World’ monument, created by seven children from seven countries to promote global unity. An obelisk pays tribute to King Oscar II, a formative figure in Norway and Sweden’s history.

Barren and windswept, at 71 degrees north, this is continental Europe’s most northern point where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Arctic ocean.

The plateau is located on Magerøya island, around an hour’s drive from the Honningsvåg where vast quantities of cod were hanging up to dry.

Personalised Culinary Approach

Every meal was an occasion on board the Havila Capella where high-quality ingredients are locally sourced. Mouth-watering plates such as King Crab from Varanger, scallop from Hitra and cod from Lofoten, recreate the coastal region’s distinctive flavours.

Havila Voyages forges lasting partnerships with local producers, supporting them by using less plastic and emissions. Its sustainable approach offers wide-ranging choices of small dishes which I found perfect. No one menu was the same which heightened the pleasure of mealtimes.

Cruising in Comfort and Style

The Havrand main restaurant serves up an extensive choice of first-class food for dinner, lunch and breakfast.

An exquisite ‘foodie heaven’ signature dinner menu for a reasonable additional charge is available in the Hildring Fine Dining restaurant. The Havly café, open around the clock, offers a good choice of snacks and meals.

A variety of activities take in cheese and wine tasting, how to prepare gravlax, an aquavit (botanical tasting) session and quiz nights.

Among the wealth of facilities are well-equipped fitness gyms, saunas and jacuzzis, a reading and board games area, shop, children’s playroom and clothes washing facilities.

Cocktails in the Havblikk Bar & Lounge were divine. Maintaining keeping my daily walking goals on the promenade deck surrounded by the scenic splendours an absolute joy.

Sweet Dreams

Havila's ocean ships offer accommodation options to suit every taste and budget. All cabins have private bathrooms with showers, and eighteen cabins are wheelchair accessible.

For those seeking to indulge themselves, the Lighthouse suite is the most luxurious choice. The exclusive, design-led accommodation has a separate bedroom, private balcony and outside jacuzzi.

Making Waves

Havila Voyages continues to make an environmental splash since launching as ‘the new kid on the block’ in the challenging Covid climate of 2021.

Striving for an emission-free coastal route across its fleet by 2030, a wealth of coveted awards confirms its trailblazing reputation operating the world’s most eco-friendly cruise ships.

Accolades include ‘Best ferry company with services in or to Norway’ (Grand Travel Awards 2023-2025) and an inclusion in TIME Magazine’s ‘World’s Greatest Places’.

Exceeding Expectations

Our ship - named after the Capella constellation's brightest stars in the northern sky - had guided us through a unique and remarkable journey.

While fortunate to have travelled extensively, I had never forged such a deep, intimate bond with Mother Nature - or fully appreciated her permanence as a life force.

Normally impatient to set off on new explorations within days of returning home, I look forward to absorbing the myriad of wonders I had experienced.

For an additional flavour of the voyage, visit the slide show below:




TRAVEL FACTS

Sharon Cain and Steve Hare were guests of Havila Voyages seven-day cruise The Coastal Journey North from Bergen to Kirkenes crossing the Arctic Circle on board the Havila Capella. Prices start at £1,523.
Itinerary: The trip takes in 34 ports including Bergen, Alesund, Geiranger, Trondheim, Bodø, Svolvaer, Tromsø, Honningsvag and Kirkenes
For details of the six-day Voyage South from Kirkenes to Bergen (33 ports) visit here – and the 12-day round voyage, Bergen - Kirkenes - Bergen (34 ports) visit here.
All voyages cross the Arctic Circle.

Northern Lights Promise

Aurora Bolealis image by Havila Voyages

Havila Voyages promises passengers who sail on the 12-day round voyage from October 1 to March 31 will see the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights). If the lights fail to grace the skies, the company will give them a complimentary six- or seven-day Coastal Voyage South or Coastal Voyage North trip.