The last time I’d stood in front of a gravestone and drawn breath at the sheer scale of whose life I was contemplating, albeit summarised in just four short lines carved into a cold piece of granite, I had been standing in Moscow’s Novodevichy Cemetery, where the centre of my attention was the final resting place of playwright, Anton Chekhov.

Large city graveyards tell their own fascinating story and the Russian capital’s, just a short Metro ride from Red Square and the Kremlin, not only tells its own tale, but also archives the lives of people like composer Shostakovich, politician Boris Yeltsin and Nikolai Flight of the Bumblebee Rimsky-Korsakov.

So, when the opportunity to emulate my 1985 visit to the former Soviet Union presented itself, only this time my focus would be on Vienna’s Central Cemetery, it took me all of 10 seconds to board public transport for a 60-minute journey to the outskirts of Austria’s stunning capital.

Cemetery PR officer, Bernhard Salzer, was there to greet me and, before long, we were wending our way between some of the thousands of fascinating gravestones that seemingly go on for ever.

“We are one of the largest cemeteries in Europe with some 3 million deceased and a land area spanning 2.5 km², or 620 acres,” he said “and, as you might imagine, there are some interesting people in here.” Probably something of an understatement!

A Chinese woman, carrying a huge bunch of yellow roses, passed in front of us, placing flowers on different graves as she went.

“There’s Beethoven,” said Bernard, nodding to his left, “and Strauss and Brahms but, sadly, this is merely a memorial to Mozart,” he added, pointing forward. It transpired that Austria’s greatest son wasn’t even buried in the cemetery.

“It will take you a 10-minute taxi drive to get to his final resting place,” added my host, “however, I would still not be able to say where Wolfgang Amadeus is: I could at best, give you an approximation because he is buried in a mass grave.” For me, it was a shocking – and fascinating – moment.

My journey to the heart of Vienna had begun 24-hours earlier, courtesy of the City Airport Train, or CAT, a sleek, swift connection to the city’s urban transport hub of Wien Mitte, where Tram D had whisked me in the direction of Nussdorf to Harmoniegasse and the elegant Hotel Harmonie Vienna

But, at that moment, I was contemplating my mortality in the company of trained historian and PR man, Bernard, not quite the grim reaper but certainly an individual with a fascinating take on all things not of this world!

The vast, sprawling necropolis that is Vienna Central Cemetery, is almost a city in itself, not only a testament to the lives of those who shaped Vienna's history and culture, but a highlight for any classical music enthusiast or simply people hunting down the final resting places of Austria’s rich and famous, including no less than biting cartoonist and caricaturist Manfred Deix.

Adjacent to the graves is a grand restaurant where you can dine in the afternoon sun, but probably of greater macabre interest is the Funeral Museum.

Saving on wood - the trapdoor coffin!

Families can still request death masks

Here, visitors learn about Viennese burial rituals and customs and, among the items on display, there is a re-usable coffin with a trap door, mourning garments and even coffin ‘bells’ that ensured those buried alive, still had a means of contacting relatives above ground! You can even place your order for a death mask!

The Karl Lueger Memorial Church, an impressive structure used occasionally for state or ‘personality’ burial services, is almost Vatican-like in its stunning design: hardly a ‘funeral chapel’ but, like the many fascinating graves, adding still further to the cemetery’s grand scale.

Saying goodbye to my excellent host, and carrying a string of deathly souvenirs from the Funeral Museum shop – a mosquito spray killer and keyring of the grim reaper among them - I set off to take a wider look at Vienna.

Death, be not proud...

Photos: Harald Lachner

...though some have called thee Mighty

It is a city not only synonymous with imperial grandeur and classical music, but also a place of hidden corners and quirky delights.

One of the first stops was the Sigmund Freud Museum. Located in his former home and office, the museum provides a fascinating, and at times sombre, look into the controversial life of the father of psychoanalysis.

The preserved rooms, sparse but evocative, tell a story of intellectual rigour and the development of ideas that would change and, at times, enrage the world.

However, no visit to Vienna would be complete without indulging in its culinary offerings: there are dozens of stunning restaurants including Vollpension, or 'Grannies Living Room,' on Schleifmuhlgasse, a must-visit café run by a collective of baking grandmas.

It serves up homemade cakes and a cozy, nostalgic atmosphere that feels like a visit to a beloved relative, this wonderful concept celebrating both intergenerational connection with the simple joy of good food.

But it’s not all about posh fare.

A must-try is the famous Bitzinger Sausage Stand, Vienna’s take on fast food and, whilst you can still get your McDonald’s or KFC, why would you when this meaty alternative – which feels and tastes so much better than a Big Mac - is on hand and heavily patronised by locals!

Bangers...

...at Bitzinger!

For a deeper dive into Vienna’s cultural soul, the Third Man Museum, curated by Gerhard Strassgschwandtner, is an absolute gem. Based on the film of the same name, the museum charts director, Carol Reed’s Oscar winning movie, from its humble beginnings to its end as one of the greatest black and white films ever made.

This private collection, visited by thousands of people from across the globe every year, is a treasure trove of film memorabilia, offering a comprehensive insight into one of the city’s greatest cinematic moments.

Another unique find is the Vienna Clock Museum, a quirky and fascinating collection of timepieces that traces the history of clock-making through the ages.

From intricate pocket watches to elaborate standing clocks, it is a testament to human ingenuity and the enduring quest to measure time.

Nearby, the newly restored Parliament building, a shining example of Viennese architectural splendour, instantly commands your attention.

Its grand facade and classical design speak of the city’s rich political history, whilst not far off, the equally stunning English Votive Church, pays daily homage to Emperor Franz Joseph for whom it was built to honour.

Hollywood great Orson Welles did much to promote Vienna when he went head-to-head with Joseph Cotton in the 1949 movie The Third Man and, despite it highlighting the carnage of life in post WWII Vienna, many also remember the film for its depiction of the city’s iconic Ferris wheel.

You can still see it in the Prater amusement park, where you can also indulge in a dose of nostalgia or card shark fun at Magic World of Vienna.

It is a city with many faces: architecture, food, history, culture and, right now, the annual Film Festival at Rathausplatz, a grand square outside Vienna City Hall, runs until the end of the month.

Not just about cinema, it also features a 'Gastro Mile' where visitors can sample international foods, turning the square into a global culinary marketplace.

‹›

• Catch the Film Festival until the end of August
• Film Festival diners
• Yum

I had the opportunity to watch the Vienna State Opera on the big screen, in Strauss’ Die Fledermaus, later finishing the evening with a stroll to the Museums Quarter, home to the weekly Monday Listening Club, where music lovers gather to share and discuss their favourite tunes.

For dinner, the nearby Glacis Beisl restaurant offers traditional Viennese fare in a charming courtyard setting, whilst Café Eiles, one of the oldest and most respected coffee (and cake!) houses in the Danube Metropolis, allows you to step back in time to a place where intellectual discussions and quiet contemplation have unfolded for generations.

Glacis Beisl Restaurant..

... for traditional Viennese fare

...or coffee at Café Eiles

Milos Forman’s 1984 film Amadeus, left a lasting impression on me of Vienna, and, in a good way, I am thrilled to have returned and paid homage to his classical colleagues Beethoven, Strauss and Brahms.

However, when you are next in Vienna, listen out for one of those ‘bells for the dead’ lest Mozart be trying to signal from his anonymous grave. We might find him yet!

FAST FACTS
Vienna Tourism – www.wien.info
Travel
Leeds to Manchester Airport – www.tpexpress.co.uk
Flight – Ryanair – www.ryanair.com
Vienna City Card – www.viennacitycard.at
I got a 72-hour card. Comes with all access travel (except CAT Airport Train). Widely discounted attractions / eateries.